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Return from the Island of Swallows

Somewhere between here and Cozumel we realized that we have spent the month of March as lazy, itinerant pleasure-seekers. Malcolm has neglected his game and I my writing. We miss the monotony of work, walks, books, Olivia, the movies and an occasional beer on the beach. Ever since August we have been planning a trip or recovering. The adventures have been brief, woven into the fabric of the greater goal, and we have enjoyed them all though some more in the remembering than in the moment. We have been without a home, as we still are, although we are making progress, as you all will soon see.


There are concrete endeavors (pun intended) to attend to. We are having a wedding, we swear. The simple pleasures of house and home are far more intriguing to me now than dancing on a bar at Senor Frogs. (segue!)

It began innocently and with tongue firmly in cheek, the ascent to the bar above the Malecon. We do not frequent places like this; we didn’t even when we were young. The level of decadence is decidedly more frat house than shining citadel. Even grown ups are thrown up into the act. It is not my fault that I excel at television theme song trivia and that some twisted impulse to win causes me to shout answers almost involuntarily. How was I to know that the reward took the form of mystery shots inauspiciously colored electric blue. Without warning or further prompting, you become the party. I ate the lotus; I danced all night. (see how I’m showing you how still smart I am)

I am a role model

Other parts of the island are wild and remote.

East Side

One afternoon we drove around to the East where the coast is craggy and the waves are white. All the ocean surrounding the island is astounding, but it was this water that made me understand why Mayan women made a pilgrimage by canoe once in their lives to pay homage to the goddess Ixchel. The sand is so soft you sink in when you walk and the spray from the surf carves holy reliefs in the rock. There are no cruise ship crowds but the bawdy spirit prevails in bars like Los Cocos where topless photos are encouraged and panties decorate the palapa roof. We enjoyed only one pina colada before pressing on to the ruins of San Gervasio. The inland road back to the hotel was scrubby low jungle. A red Jeep is the perfect way to take in all the sky.

Jeep hijinks.

Each day was spent alternately going real fast and taking it slow, sipping a cocktail on the sand.

Driving a wave runner is one of the secret and surprising joys of my life. For one half hour, I am a screaming speed machine. We ate some pretty crap food at the beach bar outpost of Carlos and Charlie’s, but I can in no way complain about drinks like the Ticket to Fly – rum, vodka, tequila, gin. We swam every day in the placid deep blue and danced and laughed an awful lot. We stumbled into a stellar lunch at La Choza – chicken brochetas, chile relleno, pescado Veracruz. And took everyone’s advice and went for the crazy delicious pizza from the wood burning oven at Guido’s. Centro at night is quiet and pretty and if you walk back just one block, it’s totally Mexico.

Who’s Afraid of Whom?

Maybe the best part was getting to spend some QT with these two crazy kids. Thanks you guys!

Amy & Andrew

I am so grateful that a place so beautiful is a mere five hours away. I hope to return to snorkel and dive, the thing Cozumel is famous for that we somehow forgot to squeeze in. We also were elated to discover Playa Del Carmen on our one hour boat to bus layover. The next time we deserve a vacation – and it is a long while away – we will probably go there for honest to goodness excellent shopping, pizza and champagne. But for now, it’s time to work.

There Are 3 Responses So Far. »

  1. Dude, if you could pimpstroll just a little harder, you might actually become poopcane.

  2. Yeah, we are pretty much in love with that first photo. It should be an ad for either Levi’s, or being awesome.

  3. Seeing your pics makes me look forward even more (if THAT’s possible) to our honeymoon in Playa this July.


    BTW..How are the kittens doing? Or did I miss an update?

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