With our Jeep in the shop, anxiously awaiting new tie rods to be shipped from the United States, we have found ourselves making our Chelem to Progreso commute on combis. Combis are a kind of community shuttle, usually a white van that explores the full spectrum of maintenance from sleek, air-conditioned new models to older, broken-down, torn-headliner-and-graffiti models. Combis typically run from one town square to another, and are an affordable way to get around. For example, Chelem to Progreso runs six pesos per person, which is a little more than 50 cents USD.

Compared to the 90 or 100 pesos that a cab driver will charge for the same trip, combis are an economical way to get around. Of course, your first climb into the back of a van can be a little daunting, so here’s a few things to expect should you decide to try this form of transportation:

1. Combis do not seem to operate on any discernible schedule.Unless there is a huge point I am missing, combis leaving from the centro part of a town leave when everyone seems to agree that it’s time. This could be when the combi is full (more on this later), or everyone just seems generally ready to go. Also, combis often take a complicated route, so sit back and relax…you’ll get to where you’re going sooner or later.
2. Combi riding is a generally cheerful, communal experience.New passengers that get picked up along the route generally wish each other a “Buenos Dias,” when boarding, the elderly are helped aboard by other passengers, the sliding door closed by whoever is closest, and the radio plays music. Some drivers will have you pay in advance, and some will have you pay when you reach your destination.
3. A combi is never, “full,” or, “at capacity,” by any commonly agreed upon definitions of these terms.You may find yourself thinking, “Well, at least we won’t be picking anyone else up, because this van is clearly full,” and you would be 100% incorrect. A combi is never truly, “full,” and passengers will continue being picked up from the beginning of the trip to the end. This morning, I rode with 15 other people in what was clearly an eight person van. But again, because everyone seems to be in generally good spirits, it’s not at all unpleasant.

All in all, you may find combis to be a handy way to get around town, without spending a lot of money. They only downside that I can think of, is that almost every major traffic accident I have ever seen has had a combi involved, perhaps because combi drivers seem to think they have some kind of special status that allows them to speed and generally act like daredevils on the roads and highways. They do not have any such special status, however, and the consequences can be dire, though infrequent. Overall, though, there is no better way to feel like a part of your community than to rub elbows with the people in the back of a van.